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Friday   8 /2 /2002


Chinese style goes symbolic

Debra Li

  IF the sweep of Chinese-style outfits did start with the APEC meeting in Shanghai last year, that was only a prelude to the fashion trends inspired by the Chinese theme. No longer limited to satin materials and traditional "prosperity patterns" with Chinese characters in round circles, Chinese style has become a blend of modern tastes and fragmented impression from the Chinese culture.

  The "Hamin Cup" Chinese fashion design contest held in Shenzhen last week provides a good illustration of the neo-Chinese style. Ancient totems, traditional Chinese scenery paintings and patterns of Warring States coins in the shape of a knife -- anything remnant of the Chinese culture can kindle the inspiration of designers. They experiment with the patterns and shapes on garments cut to fit nicely, combine traditional disc floral embroidery with lace, and find a style that is both Chinese and international. 

  As if echoing the long history behind this culture, strong colors like sapphire, scarlet and yellow are still the top choice for a Chinese-style garment. But the traditional understated floral patterns, totems, trees and flowers are given a much more prominent position on the garments. Trendy elements are also explored in full, such as asymmetrical designs, strings that band the costume, lace decorations and a contrast of different colors and materials in layers. 

  The most applauded design is a sapphire-colored cheongsam. A prominent diamond patch about the waist in the classical bird-and-flora pattern instantly catches your eye, and tiny frills rippling out into the shiny sapphire velvet and naturally setting off the slender female figure. The compromise between a traditional erect collar and a V-neckline echoes the slit up in front.

  In the classical ochre color that reminds of the emperor's backyard beauties, another blouse that leaves one shoulder bare adopts the popular look of a Gypsy robe.

  Old Shanghai movie stars would add a fur tippet to their silk cheongsams in the cold, and that has been reformed into a white lace cape worn with a Chinese-style shirt and loose pants.        

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